AllWays Traveller Features
The Dream Of Everest Base Camp
Kumar, my guide, was concerned so he stopped me and reminded me to be careful, that we were walking on ice. In fact we were walking on 1000s of tonnes of ice that formed the spectacular Khumbu Ice Flow spilling down from the foot of Everest. I'd just seen Everest Base Camp in front of me. I was walking on air.
I finally caught up with the main group who'd been out of sight ahead of me all day and stood beside a stone with the words 'Everest Base Camp, 2016' painted on it. One of the guys, I think his name was David, took the picture I'd been dreaming of for the past 2 years. Despite the fact I couldn't keep pace with the group, I'd earned their respect. I may have reached the Base Camp after they did but the magic of reaching it was just as special. You see when you're overweight and don't look the part, you have to find the mindset to compensate, that knows you can still do it.
Dare To Dream
Take the risks, experience the pain and disappointment along the way and, for sure, you will find moments of true joy.
It may be the case that you feel your dreams are just that. Fantasies that entice you when you're sleeping or just not paying attention to anything in particular. The realist in you tells you that reality is something less. More within your grasp. Safer. If that is the case then I'd like you to try something just for one minute. Picture that realist as an over protective friend. Someone who loves you and wants to protect you but doesn't really know you. Imagine the things you might consider doing if they weren't trying to keep you safe. Who would you be? Where would you go? What would you achieve? Welcome to a dream you just might realize!
I believe that life is something so much richer when our dreams are chased. Take the risks, experience the pain and disappointment along the way and, for sure, you will find moments of true joy.
Yes You Can
Those words became a mantra which answered every moment of doubt.
A few years after I'd gone to Everest Base Camp, I came across a mantra that helped me keep believing in myself. High up on Kilimanjaro as we approached the summit, our lead guide, Abraham, kept repeating the words, "Yes you can!" Those words became a mantra which answered every moment of doubt. Though I found myself again behind the main group on Summit Night, those words sung out in my heart and mind every time I wanted to stop. A few years previous I'd have never have thought like this.
I've not always believed that I could climb in the high mountains, run marathons or swim in open water. That fact alone held me back for years. Having had the many dreams of adventure, I had to gather the resources that I did have. Book the holidays, raise the money, tell people what I was planning. Slowly but surely I started to realize that I might just do this.
Then I'd start to train and the doubts would rise all over again. Every bad training session, every injury would drive me back to the embrace of my overprotective self. That side of my thinking that was ever present, waiting for me to see the error of my new found ways. Time and again I had to recover and rebel and go back out until I started to feel fit enough to do this.
I always remember the excitement of sitting with my fried breakfast at Edinburgh Airport ready to board a flight to Abu Dhabi and on to Kathmandu. I'd trained with my brother for months in the Scottish Mountains. He'd seen me exhausted and down hearted. Stuck with me as I moved at a snails pace wondering if we'd ever get safe back to the car. I'd lost count of the number of times the whole idea of heading to Everest Base Camp seemed like a bad joke. But somehow, helped by my brother and our training, I'd held onto a belief that I could do this. And then, at last, I did.
Making It Real
When I first met the group of my fellow trekkers at our hotel in Kathmandu my doubts started to return. They were friendly and polite and they tried their best but I could see the surprise on their faces. I could see that I was by far the most overweight person in the group. They were all young and mostly looked fit. Their very appearance suggested that this trip to the mountains was their domain. Not mine. I had to quietly remind myself that I had climbed a lot of mountains. That I had earned the right to be here.
After a spectacular flight into the mountains, we soon set out from the small town of Lukla along the trail to Everest. On that first day the pace of the group was fast in the mix of excitement and the perhaps a subconscious need to establish a pecking order of fitness. I was soon well established at the back of the group. Fortunately on that trek there were two others who walked close to my pace so we were never alone.
A few days later, past the settlement of Gorac Shep with only a few miles of barren rock between me and Everest Base Camp, I finally thought I would have to stop. I was completely exhausted, the main group were out of sight and there was no one around me. Every single step was followed by a stop and several deep breaths. Suddenly a voice piped up at my shoulder, "Geez! Sean, are you alright?" It was Mel, an Ozzie who lived in London, and Kumar, our main guide. Mel was fine walking at my pace and Kumar re-assured us we could make it. That was all the encouragement I needed and we were soon looking down on Everest Base Camp from the rocks at the side of the Khumbu Ice Flow.
Achieving Your Dreams
If you dream it, it's a part of you, however deep or achievable and whether you like it or not. You just have to believe you can achieve your dreams no matter what anyone else thinks or tells you. Then, sometimes despite the people around you, sometimes with their full support, you need to be determined and humble and do whatever it takes.
Our world has a perception of overweight people. They think we are lazy, irresponsible and impulsive. That exercise and hard work are beyond us. Yet I know we dream like everyone else. When we put that dream in front of us and push ourselves towards it we can experience exhilaration and joy. Such is the joy of walking in the mountains free from the box they put us in.
Getting To Everest Base Camp
There are two main Base Camps from which climbers attempt to summit Everest. One is in Tibet from which climbers ascent via the North Ridge. The Base Camp mentioned in this post is located in Nepal from which climbers reach the summit of Everest via what's often called the South Col Route. It is possible to drive to the Base Camp on the Tibet side of Everest, however this is not so on the Nepal Side where the route to the Base Camp mentioned here requires a trek of about 8 days, including acclimatization.
The trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal starts with a spectacular flight from Kathmandu to the tiny airstrip of Lukla, established by Sir Edmund Hillary (First man to summit Everest in 1953). For me this flight was as much an amazing and breath taking part of the journey as the trek itself.
Reaching Everest Base Camp from Lukla is what I would consider a challenging trek over relatively straight forward, undulating terrain. An enjoyment of the outdoors, familiarity with covering several miles of rugged mountain trail and an ability to climb and descent steep slopes I would say are the main physical requirements to establish in training. Altitude is the largest challenge along this route as several days are spent above 4,000m above mean sea level. Everest base Camp on the Nepal side is at 5,370m and the nearby summit of Kala Patthar, which is often a part of the Everest Base Camp Trek is 5,664m. In my e-Book, The Call To The Mountains, I provide lots of advice to help climbers thrive whilst trekking at altitude.
Accommodation along the route is pretty basic but the amazing surroundings and friendly people make it all worth while. The Tea Houses in which Trekkers are typically accommodated may only have 1 room heated and people have to share one common, squat style, toilet. A shower is typically a wooden stall with a bucket of hot water and is available on some of the stops. There was an actual shower in my Teahouse in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche. Internet and power for devices is available but a small payment is required.
Meat is rare along the trail as it is difficult to keep it fresh for the journey into the mountains and so the food is typically noodles or rice with veg. There is a bakery at Dingboche.
It is possible to trek to Everest Base Camp solo though I would thoroughly recommend bringing a Guide and a Porter. There are many travel organizations who cater for the whole experience and provide Guides, Porters and Accommodation along the route. The company I booked with was Exodus however they are one of many.
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